Backs&Blacks@ChaletMargaritka

Strange weather patterns descended on the Western French Alps this year making most of February feel like late March. Morzine-Avoriaz worked overtime (at nights) enabling the pistes to stay in excellent condition. Infact, if anything conditions improved from late January since the milder temperatures softened the hard packed pistes. Our guests really enjoyed these Spring like conditions. Alas, there was not much Off Piste to be found for the Tsar and I.

Winter 2011 arrived and Chalet Margaritka had plenty of take up for it’s highly personalised, ski weekends and short breaks. The early snow following the cold pattern of Northern Europe including Britain – coldest December (2010) on record – WAS GOOD!!

Beverley, Mark, Alex and Michael arrived for Easter. Initial observations on the first morning were there was too much of a difference in their skiing abilities for them to ski together.

How wrong can one be. Beverley and Marks’ attitudes were fantastic they were more than happy for us to all ski together during the first morning. In the afternoon I tried to vary things a bit more sending Alex and Michael down the Pistes while I played around with Beverley and Mark in Chavanettes, below the Col du Fornet high above Avoriaz. Under ‘Le Choucas’ chair or to the side of ‘Le Fornet Express’, Bev and Mark were loving it. Mark was one of the more laid back skiers I’ve had the privilege of skiing with all season; nothing really phased him whilst Bev was as plucky as they come. 

The above picture was taken after Bev tried to make a jump in the off piste but didn’t quite make it. Mark captures perfectly the space, the tranquility and the landscape. Look closely and Bev could actually be on the moon or is it her bed – ahhhh she looks so peaceful! Pull the duvet over love!

 The next day the destination was Switzerland. A member of the famous South London, Montaut clan joined us as well as the Tsar……… Grand Paradis was still open – EXCELLENT. The picture was taken just after we enjoyed wonderful ‘Chocolate Chauds’ at the traditional Swiss Buvette, half way down to Champery.  

Beautiful scenery, great skiing and people who became good friends. We wont dwell on how they got home from central Morzine on the Saturday night.

Hope to see you all next year where we can re-live all the stories.

Paula and the girls arrived at Chalet Margaritka in March as competent but, maybe a touch hesitant, skiers. Most of them had skied for many years and consequently had very good techniques. They just lacked a little encouragment and the right motivation to venture away from those ‘safe’ pistes.

The weekend they were with us the weather was perfect, cold but not too cold, deep blue azure skies and snow which was holding it’s condition especially in the off-piste (where less people had ventured).

After getting their ski legs on day 1; day 2 began easily with some good piste skiing all around Lindarets and down to Prodains in the Ardoisieres Valley on the other side of Super Morzine. After lunch we ventured up into Chavanettes above Avoriaz and skied some of the off-piste to the side of and under the ‘Fornet Express’. Paula and the girls were lapping it up!! Never have I seen a group with more enjoyment and thrill for more on their faces. Hence, the ‘piece de resistence’ was to descend down the ridge from the top of ‘The Express des Intrets’ where the views of Morzine over 1km below are breathtaking , rejoining the piste towards the bottom of Arare. Save for one or two interesting moments when we had to traverse across some icy bumps, come ruts as we rejoined the piste; everyone was ok and enjoying themselves immensely.

Having got the appetite the next day the girls were ready for more!! So we ventured into Switzerland and descended one of my favourite runs to Morgins where the above picture was taken. Isn’t it a great shot capturing the magic of skiing in the Back Country. Yes, we were the only people there. The girls had just skied that fairly steep slope behind and they were all extremely thrilled. Alex ‘The Tsar of Wales’ came with us, of course, since it was Saturday which means he has a desire or need to show off.

Lunch was sitting outside in the sun at one of the PDS’s best kept secrets. The ‘Cafe des Sports’ located in the picture postcard village of Morgins and tucked away so only the locals really know how good it is. Everyone lunched well after an exhilarating morning. Exchanging their stories, experiences and enjoying the thrill of entering into the ‘Back Country’ even if it was all within striking distance of a piste or two. Paula and Louise had a great time discussing how they just missed each other as we skied down a slope the other side of Morgins. Oh! Didn’t I mention that.

No worries the girls have booked to come back next year.

David, his son Ryan and Ryan’s uncle (Stewart) came to Chalet Margaritka in March. They enjoyed a mid week ski break in the company of Hannah and Chris.

Ryan loved speed, had a great sense of balance, no fear and a low centre of gravity.  His solution to the more challenging, steeper reds; just go straight down. David, his dad used to watch with incredulity, and with only one eye open. As did we all, in reality.

The Tsar and Stewart; into the back country, high above the Nyon bowl

Stewart and boarder, Chris followed Glyn into the off-piste on many occasions.David told me that Stewart loved to try different things and would be prepared to venture even further into the Off-Piste. So we went to try one of Glyn’s favourite off-piste runs off the Pointe de Nyon high above the Nyon bowl. After a bit of a tricky entry, Stewart loved it. The entry means not many people know the run and as you can see it was just us, the trees, the snow and the sunshine. No-one else was in there – total freedom and perfect tranquility!

‘Look there’s a little fella with them’ was the cry from an English family who were on-looking behind the Hotel Chamois as we rejoined the piste. Yes, It was Alex (Tsar of Wales) since there is no school for him on a Wednesday.

Stewart, I know you’d love it if I actually finally uploaded the picture!!

Hannah’s favourite run became Chamossiere despite her initial reservation about doing blacks. Matching Glyn turn for turn at one point on absolutely wonderful snow.

Glyn spent a bit of time encouraging Ryan to take a more conventional approach on the Red runs. But then he discovered the board park at Nyon and the jumps with Alex, as we enjoyed a relaxing coffee in the sunshine as they practised.

Practice those turns for next time Ryan!!

Lorraine came for a second visit of the winter to Chalet Margaritka. This one was a touch more eventful than the first, which made sense because this time she brought the GALS.

Having got their ski legs on the first day we ventured into Switzerland on day 2, descending down the wonderful ‘Grand Paradis’ run to Champery. Of course, on the way down we had to stop off at the traditional Swiss Buvette for one of their spectacular hot chocolates. We went inside because it was too cold. However, before we exited the cloud had lifted producing this magnificent shot of the ‘Dents du Midi’ (Mid Teeth). It is always worth making this descent for the spectacular views of these mountains (Not forgetting the delicious hot chocolate!!).

Having had a few, relaxing drinks in the chalet the previous evening. Spirits were high as we set out on a tour of the ‘Portes Du Soleil’ circuit on day 3. Alas, as we descended into Switzerland from the ‘Pointe De Mossette’ the cloud cover began to become more intense. Seema, distracted by the majestic beauty of the ski host failed to make the important final turn high above ‘Les Crosets’ and ended up in the security netting. Given some firm instructions (DON’T MOVE) and a helping hand by said host, she was soon on her feet again and luckily did not notice the sheer drop which lay the other side of the fencing. Well, not until we got around the other side having descended a bit further. She took it well – all smiles and calm, philosophical reflection.

Having taken the chair before Champoussin upto ‘Pointe de L’Au’ we were high above Morgins. Alas, by now the weather had deteriorated with little visibility and, worse, a vicious wind blowing in our faces. We were to descend the new ‘Didier Defago’ piste named after the new Olympic Downhill Champion who hails from the village. One could feel the girl’s apprehension (Which way now Glyn?) as the conditions on the mountain changed dramatically. Luckily, I don’t think anyone had noticed that the colour of the poles on the side of the piste seemed to be a touch darker than brown in shade ie. black. (Typical, I thought the piste map had definitely said red). Tentatively, down we went feeling the snow and the bumps with our knees. Then over she went. I looked up to see Lorr hurtling towards me spread eagle, face first in the snow. God knows how she managed to get herself into such a position (definitely not in the Kama Sutra) but there was one thing for certain. There was no way she was going to get her edges in to stop her descent on what was a fairly steep, windswept slope. I had a split second to make a decision.

So I moved into her path and just before contact; jumped on her!! We both continued to slide until I managed to get my edges in bringing the ‘express train’ slowly to a halt. I looked up to see the other members of the entourage looking in disbelief, with their mouths gawking with shock at what they had just witnessed. But it did save the day – What a hero!! Didier Defago would have been proud.

A well-earned and shall we say fairly, leisurely lunch was enjoyed at the atmospheric ‘Cafe Des Sports’ when we reached Morgins. A few laughs were also enjoyed by all over the morning’s eventful experiences.

Cosmopolitan, modern - An Eclectic Bunch

In late January, John and his group from all over Europe arrived at the Chalet on the pretext that it was his 40th birthday. Turned out this was actually over a month away. Any excuse to have a good time and a few drinks. 

What can you say? It was literally, a memorable weekend littered with firsts. The guys were the first to go into Morzine for the evening, the first to lose the taxi numbers they had been given and proceeded to be the first to have to walk back to the chalet from ‘Le Paradis’ nightclub (near the Mairie for those who know Morzine). It appeared the next morning that they were also the first to lose one of their number. One went missing in action but sightings (or lack of them to be precise of macho Italians rather than talkative Geordies ) were difficult to confirm since most found arising from their slumbers a tad difficult to achieve. We couldn’t understand why – it only took them over an hour to make it to the chalet on foot (via various GPS consultations on their I-phone) at 4 or 5, in the morning!

Oh what perfect turns; Must have been a good teacher!

However, the rewards for the brave were awesome. Look at these turns amongst the more novice skiers, after expert guidance via Glyn!!  Colin, Paul, Paul and Leigh’s skiing all developed immeasurably during their brief time at the chalet.  All were skiing beautiful parallel turns by the end of their weekend, (well on the gentler blues, definitely!! Another first!!). Let’s not dwell on Martin’s experience who was the first to throw in the towel after a mere 15 minutes on snow, and then became the first to fly home early. One consolation, he missed the Saturday night experience. (Maybe, he was the sensible one and saw the writing on the wall after Tommo and Paul, the irrepressible Geordies and self nominated, alternative, non skiing team joint leaders; were the first to arrive from Newcastle).

John, the party leader and erstwhile 40th birthday boy having lost his skiing partner (Nick the Scouse) to ‘Slumberland’ had the privilege of skiing the morning with Alex, our  7.5 year old son. Yes, just the two of them, definitely a first! Otherwise known as the ‘Tsar of Wales’ (for obvious reasons if you’ve read our website).  He had an interesting morning following the ‘Tsar’ down the very bumpy, off-piste; a perfect way to clear his head and brush off a few cobwebs.

We picked Mark and his team up at Geneva airport. To say that we were a little surprised they were all 40+ boarders was an understatement. It didn’t help that our short wheel based Trafic; meant fitting all the modern, wheely bags (for boards)  in plus their goodselves was a trifle tricky but we managed somehow! Who invented those bloody wheely bags?

They demanded powder but what they got was steep, bumpy, variables. A speciality served up often in the ‘Portes Du Soleil’ and not for the feint hearted, especially if you are on a board. But these guys were definately ‘gung ho’ and new how to use their snowboards in the off-piste. We dropped off the side of Rosa and Ranfoilly in Les Gets. Howard and Keith took one look at the steep, undulating terrain and thought better of it but then group psychology and peer pressure took over – in they went. ”The next bit through the trees is quite tricky, let me go and have a look first” caused much mirth given we were already two thirds of the way down some, very variable terrain.

They also weren’t too impressed when someone suggested a drag needed to be taken to avoid the boarder’s private nightmare – long, flat terrain. ”Get a piste map” was the cry when it became obvious the draglift venture (boarder’s second nightmare) had been totally unnecessary. My only defence it’s not always easy to work out what’s good for a boarder when you are a skier.

The next day some took themselves off to explore the board park in Avoriaz. However, the hard core remained in search of  what the French call ‘La Poudreuse’. High above Lindarets, to the left of the ‘Chaux Fleurie’ chair as you descend from Chatel Linga paradise was found for Mark, Mark and Howard as they cut some big, beautiful curves in soft, still fresh snow.

There was a small incident with a tree which we wont dwell on. Will we, Howard? And some interesting navigation was needed around a stream as we re-entered civilisation close to the Lindarets lifts. But it was all worth it for those few metres of the ‘White stuff’!!

See you next year guys. (I hope!)

Bob and the Boys (Alan & John) visited Chalet Margaritka in early February (the snow was fantastic) and proceeded to ski all over the ‘Portes Du Soleil’ with great aplomb. Grand Paradis, Chamossiere, Super Chatel, Morgins, the ‘world was their oyster’. But these shots taken from the ‘Point de Nyon’, high above Morzine possibly emphasise what skiing is all about and why we love it so much! We felt like we were on ‘Top of the World’ and for those Steve Miller aficionados out there the boys said ”it was like being able to Fly like an Eagle’. What do you mean; whose Steve Miller? Soon after we were soaring high above the clouds as we ski’d some of the trails in between the piste as it winds its way down into Nyon. 

That evening the adventures and views of the day were discussed around the log fire in the chalet, enjoying a tipple or two and sampling the sounds of ‘Steve Miller’ amongst others in Glyn’s retro vinyl collection. A perfect day in the Alps!! 

I know, I know but it is a magnificent shot and deserves to be seen by all.

The police visited Chalet Margaritka in early February. They weren’t interested in exploring some of the PDS hidden secrets (Backs & Blacks) but hat’s off; Ian and Felicity showed real guts, hanging in there on a tour of the circuit in flat light and increasing snow storms. Ian said ”I only came for the exquisite lunch you promised in a traditional Swiss Buvette (in the picture postcard alpine village of Morgins)”. Every guide has a bad day and gets his timings slightly out. They did get a Pannini and a demi at a cafe at the foot of the Super Chatel Gondola. What more could they ask for!!

Ian has one of the most balanced skiing postures you could wish for given he’s only been skiing for a few years. My only defence ”He just needs to turn on the gas a bit more”. 

I’ve promised next time lunch at the wonderful, Cafe Des Sports in Morgins is on me!!